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Absolutely!

I don't, I'm sorry but I do love the idea. Thank you.

@@TheDailySew Your videos are very detailed, it’s what we need when we learn something new. If you do one, please show the presser foot, how you fold the fabric, the stitch used, the tension for diff fabrics, wool men’s pants versus women summer slacks. Thank you much !!!

@@gigiontube thank you for this outline! It's really helpful to know what to show/explain.

Ha! That’s really true about the needles. I’m glad the video was helpful and thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it

thank you very much

no, It can be used for other garments but it can be used for a dress too. The thing you need to check is the stiffness and weight of the fabric. That will keep it from being a dress - or the dress you have in mind. Check the fabric suggestions listed on the pattern. You can use something different than listed but you want it to be similar in weight/stiffness.

Oh, that's cool 😁 Thanks for watching, liking and commenting

Thanks - I do try to make them organized & to the point. Sometimes I do a better job than others ;-)

Perfect timing ;-) I'm glad it's helpful.

Great question. It's up to you. If the pair of pants belong to someone who is still growing I would not cut off any length because you could be needling it soon. Same on some women's trousers if they think that they may want to wear heels with these pants, say in the summer, you could keep the length to let them out when that season rolls around. I would double fold the hem to hold the extra length (so you fold up 2" from the bottom and then another 2" to shorten it 4" - not folding up just a half inch and then 3.5") However, if you have a lot of extra length (5"+) you may want to cut off at least some of it. Otherwise, it creates a lot of bulk at the hem.

Thank you very much. That's great to hear. Thank you for watching it

😆 That's it! It's so after sewing you can have fresh ice in your cocktail without leaving the sewing room. (There's a full bar in the closet 😉)

Thanks - everything needs a pocket ;-)

yes! Most dresses have a 2" hem to give the skirt part weight (it wouldn't be so "floaty" as some dresses are designed to be). Floaty, light-weight type dresses will have a narrow hem. You could copy what the original hem is or, since you are shortening the dress you could give it a wide hem. You get to decide.

Yeah - All that work can be done but... I guess if the shirt is extra special to you it would be worth it IMO

Thank You!

thanks for the feedback. I'm glad the video was helpful

thank you

Ah, thanks. I'm really glad the video was helpful but happier that your dress looks great (I love clothes ;-)

I'm so happy that you had success and for sharing with me. I love your description - especially the "breathe" 😆at least you didn't mention you had to use the seam ripper. Thank you so much for watching and for the feedback.

Thank you very much 😄

You know, I don't think I ever saw this written down but when I made a shirt (from an independent pattern company) the buttons kept slipping out of the buttonholes. It hit me that their button placement marks were centered in the buttonhole. Then I remembered in school, and with so many of my older patterns (Vogue, Butterick, Simplicity), the buttons are clearly marked toward the end of the buttonhole.

This is great to hear 🧡💛😄 Thank you! (I'm a master at slow stitching - but it has served me well even though I wish I was speedier at sewing)

I'm glad you like it!

This is a great and interesting question. My first thought is not to bother taking out a serged seam to re-sew it. I would cover the seam allowance with a soft strip of fabric. If it's knit fabric you could simply fold it over the seam allowance - the serged stitches - and sew it down to the seam allowance close to the seam, catching both layers of the strip as you sew. If you cut a strip to cover the serged stitches out of a woven fabric, cut it double the width you need so you can turn under the raw edges. Like bias binding, which you could make or buy already made at places like Walmart and Joanns. If I were making the garment, or remaking it (altering it) I would definitely use French seams - especially the side seams of the shirt and the sleeve seams. Well, I say that, but sometimes I sew a straight seam, press it open, and leave it. Depends on the fabric. A French seam with a heavy or bulky fabric is not always pleasant, and a fabric that is prone to fraying needs a French seam. You could also try what used to be called a Hong Kong finish. It's when you bind the two raw edges of the seam allowance individually with binding. You'll see it used in unlined jackets. You're idea of folding each seam allowance under itself and then sewing is good, but if you fold them together, as one, (Like a French seam but not sewn wrong sides together) you'll only have to make one pass under the machine per seam instead of two. Thanks for this question.

If you want to keep the shape of the original hemline, Just measure up from the bottom however many inches/cms you want to shorten it, all around. And here is where you could shorten it more in the front than in the back and vise versa. Hemming a curve takes a little more patience and you will have extra fabric to sew down because the outer edge of a curve is larger than inside it. So a curved hem allowance will be longer and you may have little puckers, on the inside of the shirt because of gathering up and sewing down that extra bit of fabric.

Thanks. I would use a thicker thread for sewing down the patch that is under the hole or if you are just going to darn the area and not cover it with the elbow patch. Only because your sweater yarn is thick not because you can't use all-purpose sewing thread. I like to match the thread weight to the garment usually. So you could sew with a pearl cotton or embroidery floss or a sock-weight yarn. But other than that I think it would be the same for a chunky sweater. Let me know how it goes. I'm interested.

I'm so glad the video was helpful. Now your sons will be asking you anytime they need pants hemmed. I ask mine to give me at least 2 days notice ;-)

@@TheDailySew Good idea! LOL - that is right in line with my asking them for 2 days notice if they want to use the washer. 🤣

@@carlamammapicspamcarr633 😆

Thanks. You can do the alteration - It's not difficult to do you just have to take your time and think it through - You got this!

They now require you to join their Sewing Club - which is free. After you register and log in you will have links to download their free patterns on your account page. Here is the link to the page telling you about the club and how to register: theassemblylineshop.com/pages/tal-sewing-club

I just checked the shirt I hemmed and the stitches are not as stretchy as the fabric but there is some give. So, the stitches, well, the thread that forms the stitches will not stretch. That's why if you sewed with a straight stitch and didn't alternate gently stretching the fabric and letting it relax as you sewed - you have NO stretch. The stitches constrict the fabric and it cannot stretch. The wobble stitch - the narrow zigzag - allows a little stretch. If your tanks are ribbed or have a lot of stretch in them (like some % of elasticine) they are probably cut narrower than a regular T and depend on using that extra stretch to put on/take off (because the fabric can stretch so much more than plain cotton jersey). So... I don't know off hand the best approach. But if this is what you are hemming write back and I will do a little research.

Thank you. It was a quick and easy project which always feels like a Win 😉

I love this! thank you for the comment and I'm so glad it was helpful 😊

yes, sew the sides if you're taking them in and if you are reducing the width of the sleeve you could also pinch and sew out the excess from the sleeve seam. The sleeve is sort of like the hem though so you might want to watch the next video - How to Shorten a T-shirt. It's the same technique. I recommend pinning or basting the sleeve then trying it on before permanently sewing to check you still have free arm movement. (sometimes the armhole becomes raised or too small and it's uncomfortable to wear) A while back I simply cut the sleeves at an angle to turn them into a cap sleeve. It worked great - but I would cut a little less off than you think because the fabric curls and the sleeve "shrinks". You can cut more off later if needed . Thanks for watching the video

Thank you so much for the response. 😊 I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

Do you mean you sewed up the side, then trimmed the sleeves at an angle and sewed them up while still connected? Without removing the sleeves and cutting them down and then sewing them back on as usual? I hope that makes sense.

@@thelmalou1320 I didn't do that but I understand the question. I simply sewed up the sides - and then cut the end of the sleeves at an angle. They weren't too floppy just too square looking after I tapered the sides. But yes, You can take in the sleeves the same way as the sides - you don't have to take them apart. However, the tricky thing is the end or hem of the sleeve might show the extra fabric you took in. Method 1: The quick and dirty: If it shows you could simply cut the extra fabric, that pinch you took out, in half along the fold and let the two halfs fall to each side of the new seam. (Trim the halves if they are over 1/2") then you could tack down the fabric (what is now the new seam allowance) with a couple hand stitches so they don't peek out from the sleeve Method 2: for a dressier T or uniform T: Treat the sleeve like the body of the shirt. Take out (or cut off if the sleeve is too long) the sleeve's hem. Press it flat. Sew the sleeve to make it skinnier (like taking in the sides) and then fold the hem back in place and sew around the sleeve to sew the hem down. Watch this video How to Shorten a Knit top ua-cam.com/video/-gbxrZaP-NA/v-deo.htmlsi=tWZ2Gb86SgWJFnI2 to see how to sew on the outside of the shirt - The narrow zigzag . Thanks for your question. I hope this helps explain it better. And ask me again if it didn't 😉😀

Thank you so much for the thorough explanation. If you’d like to make a tutorial video so we can see you doing this step by step, I bet it would be well received 😊. I’m going to read over this and see if I can understand it well enough and give it a try 😊 Thank you again.

It works. I know some folks don't like the look of the zig-zag stitch but if you make it narrow it's not that noticeably different from a straight stitch. good luck! and thanks for watching the video

I'm glad you liked the video. I really like your fabric swatch book idea. I need some help with sewing pieces that go with other pieces and end up wearing every me-made top with Jeans and every me-made skirt with t-shirts (Now, I have made a couple t-shirts ;-) The other thing you brought up - making a few things using the same fabric - is a great idea and something I have thought of after I ordered and received the 2yards of whatever I bought. I need to remember when I place the order to get enough yardage for 2 garments or 1 garment and a scarf especially solids 9As I tend to but prints and then nothing goes with anything. Thanks for your comment. I hope you get something out of the books you're checking out.

@@TheDailySew The nice thing about the swatches is that I know where I got the fabric and what it is called, so I can order more if I find additional ideas for the fabric. I made culottes, two tops and a vest out a fabric I thought was not worthy of making anything with. I did order more once I realized what I could make from it. And I am making a jean style jacket to go with another pair of culottes and a pair of cargo pants that all are cut from the same loden green linen. I found more of that fabric on Etsy. I got lucky. I have plans to make another button up blouse from that fabric. That green is a great easy color to mix and match. It does make sewing a lot of more fun. And I do have a lot of extra fabric in my stash. But that serves me instead of crashing my sewing flow. If you know what I mean. I copy my ready to wear a lot because patterns just don't offer the same fit and even if they are the same style I fight with the fit a lot to even get the style from them. I can't wait for the new books to get to the library. I had to order all of them.

@@jeannetteantry1086 oh - thanks for the details. Yes, you said you write all that down, so of course you could go back and buy more later if you want 🤦‍♀ I really think I would benefit from copying you and making a swatch book. Plus I've been wanting to keep track of how much my clothes cost and how long they last. Writing down what I made with the fabric and when would do the trick for me me-mades. I've been copying my clothes more and more over using patterns. I even taught my local sewing group the basics of how to do this. My most recent copy was of some pricey lace underwear. I'm making them in cotton jersey though and am excited to get the fit and style and fabric I want - and made without forced labor ;-) I think copying clothes really is worth the time because unlike a pattern, you already know how it fits and that you like wearing that style- plus you can change things a bit if you want.

yes!

thank you

it's a little bit of a pain to have to alter your clothes after spending to buy them but it's more of a pain having nothing that fits right. So I have to get over it and make the alterations ;-)

i'm so glad you had an easy fix

😄I totally know what you mean about making something for someone else better than when it's for myself. I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching

thank you! I'm glad it was helpful

If you cut all the pieces (the skirt pieces - not necessarily pockets or waistband) with the same grain then you are ok. And, possibly, depending on your fabric, still ok if only one panel is cut off grain. I play get-it all-on-the-fabric-at-any-cost frequently. I'm also pretty good at packing all my groceries into minimal bags ;-) Practice 😄

@@TheDailySew that's great to hear! Thank you for your videos, as a beginner they are very useful

thank you

that's great to hear. Thanks

Thank you!

You're welcome. I'm glad you found the videos helpful. It's a fun project to make.

I would apply something like Fray Check (by Dritz) or a clear-drying fabric glue so the fabric stops fraying first. Especially if the fabric is "silky" like a lining. Then to restitch the seam, I would use a whip stitch that went over the frayed edge, securing down the loose threads. I'm thinking this without seeing your seam, so if I'm not making any sense to you, please reply back with more description and I'll try to answer again ;-) I hope this helps

thanks for watching 🙂

thank you SO much. I'm glad the video showed you what you wanted to know. But if you have any questions put them here ;-)

Same! I totally agree 👍🏼